紅菜頭羅宋湯 | Beet Borscht
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紅菜頭羅宋湯 x 食物移民史
香港嚐到的羅宋湯以番茄做湯底，箇中包含精彩的移民史和本土化過程。
事緣1917年俄國十月革命，令很多白俄移民到了包括上海在內的一些中國城市。他們在當地難以找到煮羅宋湯的主要食材––紅菜頭––就唯有用番茄代替。1920至30年代，白俄移民開始輾轉南下去到香港，亦將番茄版羅宋湯帶到當地。
我和家姐對原裝版本的紅菜頭羅宋湯甚感好奇，便根據這個食譜煮了幾次與家人分享。這食譜並不包含傳統東歐食材如大白菜和薯仔，我們反而使用了幾款來自Eat Fresh的本地有機蔬菜！
試想想，現今世代有那麼多人遷徙異鄉，還會因此創作出幾多種新的食物呢？
延伸閱讀：
https://zolimacitymag.com/why-do-hong-kong-restaurants-serve-borscht-the-overlooked-history-of-russian-hong-kong/
https://www.goldthread2.com/food/how-russian-borscht-became-hong-kong-staple/article/3000268
份量： 6
所需時間：1小時或以上
材料：
特級初榨橄欖油 3/4 杯
香芹 4 湯匙（切塊）
刁草 4 湯匙（切碎）
紅菜頭 4 個（中型，大概500 克，切丁）
洋蔥 半個（切碎）
蒜 2 瓣（切碎）
紅蘿蔔 1 個（大型，去皮，切丁）
西芹 1 瓣（小型，去皮，切丁）
韭葱 1 棵（只需白色部份，切成大概0.5厘米粗的小塊）
蔬菜高湯或水 2.4 升
鹽和黑胡椒粉
步驟：
製刁草油：將1/4杯橄欖油、香芹和刁草混合在一個小碗中。擱置一旁至少一小時。
如果紅菜頭未煮熟：將焗爐預熱至230°C。用1/4杯橄欖油、2湯匙水以及一點鹽浸紅菜頭。用錫紙包好紅菜頭，焗30-45分鐘，直到變嫩（時間取決於紅菜頭的大小）。讓紅菜頭冷卻，去皮，切丁。
同時，開中至慢火，在一個大湯煲（至少7.5L容量）燒熱剩餘的油，約2分鐘。加入洋蔥和蒜頭，攪拌，直至變軟但未變褐，約5分鐘。
放入紅蘿蔔和西芹，定時攪拌直至變軟，約5分鐘。拌入韭葱，煮至變軟，約3分鐘。
加高湯或水，用慢火煮開。如果用水，可加鹽和胡椒粉調味。煮30分鐘。熄火。放入紅菜頭，攪拌均勻。
上菜時，將湯平均分好，每碗湯灑上一點刁草即成。
食譜來源：https://www.wsj.com/articles/recipe-vegetable-borscht-1489082868（經改良）
你做過這道菜嗎？在下面留言，分享你的回憶吧！
Beet Borscht x Migrations
Borscht in Hong Kong is tomato-based - a fascinating result of migration and cultural adaptation.
It traces back to the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, when White Russians fled for Chinese cities like Shanghai. There, the key ingredient of the soup - beets - was hard to find. Tomatoes were used as a substitute. By the 1920s to 30s, White Russians started making their way to Hong Kong along with the tomato-based borscht.
Curious about the original beet-based borscht, my sister and I made this recipe a few times for our family. It still doesn’t include the most traditional Eastern European ingredients like cabbage and potatoes, but it does give us plenty of room to include a range of local organic vegetables from Eat Fresh!
For an extra dose of flavour, think of the myriad ways people still migrate today - what other food have we yet to adapt and create?
Further reading:
https://zolimacitymag.com/why-do-hong-kong-restaurants-serve-borscht-the-overlooked-history-of-russian-hong-kong/
https://www.goldthread2.com/food/how-russian-borscht-became-hong-kong-staple/article/3000268
Serves: 6
Total cooking time: 1 hour or more
Ingredients:
3/4 cups extra virgin olive oil
4 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped
4 tbsp dill, chopped
4 medium red beets, diced (around 500g)
1/2 yellow onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
1 small celery root, peeled and diced
1 leek, white parts only, cut into rounds around 0.5cm thick
2.4L vegetable stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Steps:
Make dill oil: Combine 1/4 cup olive oil, parsley, and dill in a small bowl. Let it sit at least 1 hour.
If your beets are uncooked: Preheat oven to 230°C. Toss beets with 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 tbsp water, and salt. Cover with foil and bake until tender, around 30-45 mins, depending on size of beets. Let beets cool, then peel and dice them.
Meanwhile, set a big soup pot (at least 7.5L) over medium-low heat. Add remaining oil and heat until warm, 2 mins. Add onions and garlic. Cook and stir until soft but not browned, 5 mins.
Add carrots and celery root. Cook, stirring occasionally until softened, 5 mins. Stir in leeks. Cook until softened, 3 mins more.
Add stock or water and bring to a simmer. If using water, season with salt and pepper. Let simmer for 30 mins. Turn off heat. Stir in beets.
To serve, divide soup into bowls and top with a drizzle of dill oil.
Recipe source: https://www.wsj.com/articles/recipe-vegetable-borscht-1489082868 (adapted)
Did you make this dish? Share your memory about it in the comment box below!